January 29, 2009

DB Sweet and Savory Vegan Tuiles

This month's challenge is brought to us by Karen of Bake My Day and Zorra of 1x umruehren bitte aka Kochtopf. They have chosen Tuiles from The Chocolate Book by Angélique Schmeink and Nougatine and Chocolate Tuiles from Michel Roux.

The grand Daring Baker saga continues this month with tuiles. Our hosts were kind enough to give us a choice of making either regular sweet tuiles, nougatine (shaped caramelized sugar with nuts) or savory tuiles. We were told to pick one of the batters, shape the tuiles and pair them with something light. I wanted to do something interesting with the shaping but knew that my son and husband wouldn't be impressed with pretty butterflies or flowers. In a spur of the moment baking session with Alex, my son, I made my first batch of spiders and snake shaped tuiles. I had made the decision to go vegan this month after using eggs in a couple recent DB challenges, so I chose the veganized recipe from Vegan Yum Yum. I loved that it uses my favorite egg replacer, flax seed meal, and that it was so simple. The practice tuiles were delicious and fun to make however I realized that my son would be more interested in something that could hold ice cream than a cookie shaped like a snake.

So I made another batch in the daytime, when I knew I could get a decent photograph. For this batch I made cones and combined them with a mixed berry sorbet. They were a HUGE hit!! With my son's dairy allergies he's never had ice cream in a waffle cone or sugar cone, only the premade Styrofoam-like cake cones. Suddenly a whole new world of ice cream pleasure was open to him. They were sweet and I let them caramelize more than the cookies which paired perfectly with my homemade sorbet, which I keep on the tart side. This success spurred me to make another batch to bring to a "Summer in January" event, along with plum sorbet made with my horded frozen local plums.

I felt that my skills were advancing enough that I had to try my hand at the savory tuiles as well. Our savory tuile recipe comes from The French Laundry Cookbook. I have a copy on my shelf and flip longingly through it's pages thinking, "Today will be the day I attempt this." But I rarely do. Also, I'm a huge fan of non-fiction food books that aren't cookbooks and the descriptions of Phoebe Damrosch in Service Included struggling on her open oven door with these tuile cornets challenged me further. However, I still really wanted to commit to the vegan path this month. So I did the unthinkable and messed with a Thomas Keller recipe. The savory tuiles were as challenging as Phoebe describes and that's with my precaution of cooking only two at a time. However I did get a good half dozen that were suitable for the camera.

To fill the savory cornets I made a refined version of a salad I eat quite often. It's essentially the flavors of an avocado and cucumber maki roll without the rice. I dress diced cucumber with seasoned rice vinegar, mix them with chopped avocado and top it all with sesame seeds and seasoned seaweed. I usually just haphazardly chop everything and throw it in a bowl but for the cornets I carefully diced the cucumber and avocado. For the seaweed I recommend Sea's Gift (photo at the end), which is awesome stuff! I also attempted this soy caviar recipe but as written it uses a huge amount of soy sauce. I couldn't divide it properly and my kitchen scale doesn't read in tenths of a gram. The "caviar" was a bust but I know it's my fault. With the pressure of remaking a Thomas Keller recipe, I felt I had to do something more so I took some precooked rice and deep fried it (a la sizzling rice soup). That made the final toasty addition to my cornet.

I can't thank Lolo of Vegan Yum Yum enough. I love the sweet tuile cones and see myself making them often. Once you get a hang of the timing and gentle touch needed, making them goes fast--though a little burning of your thumb and forefinger is required. While I liked the savory cornets well enough I think the recipe still could use some adjusting. Another filling might work better as well. The avocado was a little too rich combined with the savory tuile, which came out like a very buttery cracker. I do want to conquer that soy caviar too! I just need to get myself a better kitchen scale.

Links:
-For the complete, original versions of this month's recipes visit our hosts at: Bake My Day and 1x umrühren bitte.
-For the excellent sweet tuiles please use Vegan Yum Yum's Tuile Recipe
-For a good read try, Service Included: Four-Star Secrets of an Eavesdropping Waiter
-And, as always, please check out the Daring Baker Blogroll

My Basic Method for Sorbet
Makes ~1 quart, which goes fast in my house
1 1/2 pounds of fruit (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, plums, cherries, etc)
1/2 to 1 1/4 cup sugar (every batch is different)
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon vanilla vodka*, optional (or replace with appropriate liquor of your choice)
tiny pinch of salt
*This adds some flavor but also anti-freeze properties, which help keep the sorbet softer.

-If the fruit is frozen, defrost on the counter. If you are using plums or fresh blueberries I suggest adding the sugar and water and cooking just until the fruit starts to break down. I think you get more flavor this way. This is not necessary for frozen blueberries.
-Process the fruit (along with any juice left from defrosting) with 1/2 cup of sugar, the water, vodka and salt. Process til pureed and taste to see if additional sugar is needed, add if necessary. -Continue processing for a few minutes. Often you can get the fruit to foam, which will make a lighter product in the end. Sometime it won't happen much.
-Strain the puree to remove seeds. If you used cooked fruit then chill the mixture for at least 3 hours.
-Follow your ice cream maker's directions.

Savory Tuile Cornets*
Adapted from the recipe in Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook
*This is not a final recipe but just what I did if you want to experiment with it. I think that a little less of the flax seed meal and water mix might work better. Please let me know if you have any success with it.

8 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 tablespoons Earth Balance margarine
1 tablespoon flax seed meal mixed with 1/4 cup water, set aside for at least 5 minutes
~2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

-Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F. Make paper cones and secure with masking tape. Also make a 4-inch circle stencil with cardboard (like the kind that makes cereal boxes).
-Mix together the flour, sugar and salt.
-Beat the margarine until light and fluffy.
-Add flax seed meal mixture and beat together again until light and fluffy.
-Fold the flour mix into the margarine mixture.
-Place the stencil down onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the inside of the stencil with a little sesame seeds and spread batter on top. I suggest doing two at a time but if you are brave make more. Leave at least 1 inch between each circle.
-Bake 4-6 minutes and then take out and mold on your cone molds. This can be done on the door of the oven to keep the tuiles pliable. Or you can just do a few at a time.
-Place seam side down and bake again for 3-4 additional minutes until golden brown.
-Cool slightly (~30-45 seconds) and remove molds.
-Cool the rest of the way and fill.

My sous chef Alex and our practice tuilesMore practice tuiles
If you are a seaweed lover try this! It's finely shredded, sesame oil coated, sweetened seaweed
and is great on top of rice
or my combination of cucumber and avocado dressed with rice vinegar.

64 comments:

Cristine said...

Man alive are those fantastic!!! I really love the snakes and spiders, too!

Jo said...

Great job on your tuiles. Looks fantastic and the fillings delicious too. Love the spidey ones!

Abigail said...

These are just BEAUTIFUL. I'm amazed! I never would've thought to make my own cones! This is truly some fantastic art, and your photography is gorgeous, too! :)

Shayne said...

they were so good and Z could not get enough of the little cones and the sorbet and I have to say I kept going back too.

Melissa said...

Wow! Looks like you had fun with this one. :) I love your savory idea!

VeggieGirl said...

Soooo fantastic and lovely!!

Loie said...

So pretty! You've done really well in shaping them. The combinations look delicious too.

Joelen said...

Beautiful job!!

Rosa's Yummy Yums said...

Beautiful! I love both versions! You did a great job!

Cheers,

Rosa

Olga said...

it would be hard to pick a favorite: they both look amazing!
The color of the fruit sorbet is so pretty.

vibi said...

Very pretty, Maggie!
I love how your tiles came out with a rustic feel to them... and what to say about that half 'n half picture... wow!
Very well done!

Maria said...

Nice job! I love what you did here!! Savory tuiles sound amazing!

Speedbump Kitchen said...

How funny, you're making spiders and snakes and I'm making tiaras! I agree Michigan winters are a real bummer for good food photos! You have to be done by 3, or you're doomed to use a flash!!

Marysol said...

I'd happily take one of each!

Btw, I love the deep, rich color of the fruity sorbet.

During the summer I'll buy tons of berries at their peak, and freeze them so I can make sorbets all winter long. And your pictures have suddenly awaken a serious craving.

teafactory said...

your photos look fab! sorbet...mmm!

Clumbsy Cookie said...

The animals are just adorable!!! I love all your creations and your pictures on this post are really great!

Vegan_Noodle said...

Wow!! That is one fantastic photo with the split savory and sweet! Bravo for trying a savory version.

Snooky doodle said...

wow you surely are a creative mum. your tuiles are awesome :)

shellyfish said...

Your photos are amazing, Maggie! And that Alex is a real cutie pie. I didn't try savory ones, but now I'm thinking I maybe should!

Lauren said...

Mmm, your tuiles look amazing! I love the ice cream cone idea =D!

Marija said...

OMG! They are amazing! Photos stunning... And Alex is adorable!

MeetaK said...

these really look absolutely gorgeous! well done!

Debyi said...

Your tuiles came out great! I am totally going to have to try your savory tuiles out. They look amazing! Thanks for including your sorbet recipe. I am a dairy allergy girl, so any ideas for frozen treats are very welcome!

Cakelaw said...

LOL Maggie - I love the top photo with the split savoury/sweet combination. The plum sorbet looks fantastic - love the deep burgundy colour.

Lisa said...

LOVE your photos! And that sorbet looks so rich and summery for the middle of winter!

How could you have made those cones/cornets WITHOUT molds? Wow!

Chez Us said...

Your photos are great - I cannot decide which ones I love more. And I need to know, HOW did you make the cornets without molds - I am scared of burning myself and could not get them to mold. So inspired to try again!

jillian said...

These both look incredible! The sorbet looks so dark and fruity!

mllenoelle said...

I want to join Daring Bakers so bad, but fiddly dessert recipes are my culinary Achilles heel. This one actually looks more do-able. Either that or you're just making it look easy! Where do you get the seaweed, by the way?

Cheryl Harris said...

your sous chef is too cute for words. and your tuiles are gorgeous!

Jen Yu said...

Oh wow, I love all your versions - that first photo rocks! Your sorbet looks so amazingly luscious and rich. Great job.

mary said...

I love what you did with that top savory/sweet picture. The savory filling especially sounds delicious!

Tina said...

Wow! I love your pics.
Everything looks so good!
Great job!

CookiePie said...

Beautiful tuiles, and the filling sound fantastic! How lovely that your son got to enjoy them too :)

Hannah said...

Oh wow, your photos are absolutely stunning! I'm dying to try your savory version now... it's definitely going into my "to make" files. Thanks for sharing the recipe. :)

racheleats said...

ok, you know when you described looking longingly at a recipe and thinking.....umm one day, well I am having a similar experience now having read this post.
The plum sorbet looks divine and I hope its not too long before I stop going ummm and make some.
oh, I finally clicked on your house project and it seriously had me choking on my toast - wow - WOW.

DJ Karma (VegSpinz) said...

Glad to have found your site- very creative!

Aparna said...

Great tuiles. And the practise tuiles look very good. Not surprised considering you have such an able sous chef.:)

The deep colour of the sorbet looks very inviting too.

Becky @ Boys Rule My Life said...

Great job! I love that you tried several different varieties! Although these are fairly simple to make, January did not afford the time for me to make more than a single batch. :( Love your creepy - crawlies and thanks for the sorbet recipe! I hope to give that a try one day!

Susan/Wild Yeast said...

Really well done! The sorbet cones are just a perfect idea.

Alisa from Go Dairy Free said...

What an amazing photo and recipe idea!

PG said...

Looooooooovely! Beautiful! I like the sorbet too a lot!

farida said...

So many beautiful varieties of tuiles! You did an amazing job!

madcapcupcake said...

Maggie, these are so great! I can't wait to try your sorbet recipe! - I went store bought with the ice cream this time around to save time (even though I have a fab ice cream maker), but I'll be doing homemade next time - I'll let you know how it turns out :) LOVE the critter shaped tuiles!!

Sara said...

Yum, these look so elegant and delicious! I love the tuile ice cream cones! :)

Audax said...

What a great posting. I just love the effort you put into the recipes and the photos really make it worth it. The flavour combinations are well thought out. I do look at your home being made and I think what a great experince for you and the kids. Yours from Sydney where it is 45C (115F) and super hot. I do like the photos of snow you show in the other blog.

Lisa Michelle said...

I don't even know where to start, as everything looks incredible and so delicious! The deep red hue of the sorbet is beautiful, as are your perfect cones. Way to go!

culinography said...

Love the split shot at the top of your post! Beautifully done!

laci said...

WOW really impressive! I think I'd be more of a sweet tulie person but both look so creative! AWWW Alex gets to have some... he made the BEST snakes and spiders tulies! =D

Jen of A2eatwrite said...

Maggie, obviously I LOVED your sweet version, but the savoury looks amazing as well. No surprise there!

Lori said...

These look great and I would like to try your recipe.

All great pics!

Netts Nook said...

Yum Yum these look great thanks for sharing your sorbet recipe.

sunita said...

What gorgeous tuiles...I simple adore your sorbet too :-)

BC said...

Hee hee, you messed with a Thomas Keller recipe (I won't tell anyone) They are beautiful so I'm sure all is forgiven.

TavoLini said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
lisa (dandysugar) said...

Wow, you did a beautiful job!! The color of your sorbet is amazing! Love the savory variation too! Delicious!

TavoLini said...

How neat!! Girl, you amaze me again and again!!

I linked to your page, using the vegetarian chili recipe. Thank you for posting it ;)

zorra said...

Great job, I love the spiders! :-)

Sophie said...

Those look so cute & so appetizing!! Well done!

Dawn said...

those are just so pretty! I adore the spiders too.
And the seaweed snack, is really good for you! Seaweed has so many good things in it!!!

The Other Tiger said...

Both versions look so delicious in your photos! Especially the plum sorbet...it's so vibrant. I'll have to make some next summer when my plum tree is producing. I also loved that your son finally got a real ice cream cone. That's one of the best simple pleasures in life.

Diana said...

Great minds think alike! I made my savory with my favorite sushi roll ingredients without rice. All of your tuiles look great, love the creativity.

Kitarra said...

Your sorbet makes me want to lick my screen, it is so dark and lovely I feel like I can fall right into it.

Your coronets are gorgeous too! Great job on the challenge!

Angela@spinachtiger said...

These are incredible. I loved the photo of showing both sweet and savory. You have fun in your kitchen. I almost wish I was there baking with you. Beautiful pictures too.

Jude said...

Such a nice set of tuiles. you pretty much covered every tuile shape I could think of!